"AMOU Daria" REVILLON (1935)
"CALENDAL" MOlinard (1929)
"fleur de feu" guerlain (1948)
"JE REVIENS" worth (1931)
"le dix" balenciaga (1948)
"robe d'un soir" carven (1947)
"vent vert" balmain (1947)
Anna-Elisabeth De NOAILLES (1876 - 1933)
I invite you to visit this exhibition and discover the differences in perfume bottle designs during these two important periods of the 20th Century: Art Nouveau and Art Deco.
I have been following the International Perfume Foundation's work for more than 20 years now and I am really amazed to discover the emergence of Natural perfumers coinciding with consumer calls for better perfumes. More than the fact these perfumes are natural, they all have their own world to share.
We are pleased to introduce Valentina Fierro and her erotic scents.
Where are you based ?
I’m based in Nelson BC., in Canada. Nelson is a small, pristine mountain town in the Kootenays of British Columbia, recognized for its awesome natural beauty and resources. We’re a tourist destination with a population of around 10,000.
How did you start?
Creating natural perfume evolved from my love of working with beautiful essential oils and resins. I first started by making solid perfumes with beeswax & jojoba. I’d add drops of essential oils into the mix to create these simple yet elegant solid perfume gems for myself. People loved them & wanted to buy them from me. That was before I actually had a business! It all kind of took off from there.
What was the first scent that made you decide to become a perfumer ?
The first scent was probably a really fine Kewda that was gifted to me in a collection of traditional attars many years ago. The second scent that truly did it for me was an amazing authentic Jasmine enfleurage from Egypt. I’ve never smelled anything like it since. The sheer depth and exquisite beauty of this Jasmine oil took my breath away. The aroma was so euphoric that it literally brought tears to my eyes.
When was that ?
The Kewda came to me in the 80’s. That’s when I began switching to using more natural perfumes. I found the Jasmine enfleurage in the late ’90’s. That’s when I began making natural perfume.
What drove you to create erotic perfume ?
I am a sensualist that’s driven by a creative fiery passion to connect and make magic.
I love playing with the erotic edge; that place between fear and desire; repulsion and attraction; gentleness and intensity; darkness and light.
Perfume speaks to me this way.
The olfactory limbic brain connection with each essence calls me to reach inside, to go deeper and find that edge where their aromatic spirits can dance and play. It’s hot and exciting! How could I NOT make erotic perfume?
You are a natural perfumer, so when did you made the choice to become a natural perfumer instead of following the majority of the brands making synthetic perfumes. What led you to make this choice?
There was no choice in the matter. I have never considered the use of synthetics as an alternative. I am aware that most modern perfumers (even the so called natural ones) believe in order to be a real perfumer you have to use synthetics. I don’t buy into this idea at all. I’ve heard many near convincing arguments in favour of the use of natural isolates as well. I don’t care. I want to feel the full expression of each individual oil in it’s complete entirety. I don’t care what other so called “real” perfumers may think. They can have their isolated molecules and manufactured scent patents and what have you. I love the REAL thing.
Where can we find your perfumes ?
You can contact me directly or through my web site at www.isis.ca. & www.isisnaturalperfume.com (I’m working on having a new site up in the New Year just for my perfume collection).
Are you distributed worldwide ?
Can you give us an idea what type of person buys your product ?
My clientele is quite diversified. Not your average consumer. They range from lawyers and therapists to bohemian artists, activists and the curious tourist. They are for the most part, Intelligent, conscientious, “think-outside-the-box” kind of people. People who want something of quality that is unique and real. I am blessed to have a loyal and devoted following that enjoys the personal touch I try & give to what I do. We are like family.
From which country are most of them from ?
Mostly Canada & the USA with the exception of a few.
Do you have many European clients ?
Only a small few.
Do you think the use of social media can spread the message of natural perfume as a healthier alternative
René Lalique brought to perfumery a new concept of design for perfume bottles.
In 1920, he is recognized as the father of the contemporary perfume bottles.
His creations are numerous, his bottles are prized by collectors who fight over high priced bottles today at auctions.
But who is René Lalique ?
René Jules Lalique, glass Master and French
jeweller, born on April 6th, 1860 in Ay (Marne) - Deceased on May 5th, 1945.
He studied drawing and goldsmithery at Decorative Arts School in Paris.
He worked for famous jewellers like Boucheron, Vever and Cartier.
From 1878 to 1880, he enrolled in courses at Sydenham Art College in London. In 1882, he became an independent designer for several jewellery houses in Paris and four years later launched his own jewellery brand.
In 1890, René Lalique was recognised as one of the most important French Art Nouveau jewellery designers, by creating innovative art pieces for the new Samuel Bing's store in Paris, “the House of Art Nouveau”.
He took part to the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1900, which gave him an international reputation.
He kept the Art Nouveau sources of inspiration; fauna and flora, including peacock and insects.
He innovated by using unusual materials for the jewellery at that time amongst them: glass, enamel, leather, horn and mother-of-pearl.
After having opened a shop on place Vendôme in Paris, and meeting the perfumer François Coty in 1907, he started designing glass perfume bottles.
Vases, cups, dishes, perfume bottles, emblems of automobile famous brands, or panels (as those which will decorate the dining room of the Normandy or the Orient Express train) were produced using new methods of glass production such as coloured, opalescent, dulled, engraved or mottled glass.
By 1920, he turned to Art Déco.
He also created aesthetic effects: glossed Lalique, opalescent glass and also drew fabrics, fans and iron works.
He owned his own Pavillon at the Art Decorative Exhibition in Paris in 1925 where he displayed the multiple resources glass offered to decoration (fountains, lighting, doors, perfume bottles etc.)
The factory in Alsace, closed during the war, but was reopened by his son Marc Lalique in 1946 who started creating perfume bottles for Nina Ricci.
Coming next: When François Coty met René Lalique
René Lalique apporta à la parfumerie une conception nouvelle du flacon à parfum.
En 1920, il est reconnu comme le père des flacons contemporains.
Ses créations sont incomptables, ses flacons prisés des collectionneurs s'arrachent aujourd'hui aux prix les plus hauts dans les ventes aux enchères.
Mais qui est René Lalique ?
René Jules Lalique, maître verrier et bijoutier français, né le 6 avril 1860 à Ay (Marne) - Décédé le 5 mai 1945.
Il étudie le dessin et l’orfèvrerie à l’École des Arts Décoratifs de Paris.
Il travaille pour des joailliers renommés comme Boucheron, Vever ou encore Cartier.
De 1878 à 1880, il suit les cours du Sydenham Art College à Londres.
En 1882, il devient concepteur indépendant pour plusieurs maison de joaillerie de Paris et lance quatre ans plus tard sa propre joaillerie.
En 1890, Lalique est reconnu comme un des concepteurs de bijoux les plus importants de l'Art Nouveau français, en créant des pièces innovantes pour la nouvelle boutique de Samuel Bing à Paris, « La Maison de l'Art Nouveau ».
Il participe à l’Exposition Universelle de 1900 de Paris, qui lui établit une réputation internationale.
Tout en gardant les sources d'inspiration de l'Art nouveau, faune et flore, dont le paon et les insectes.
Il innove en utilisant des matériaux peu usités pour la bijouterie à cette époque : le verre, l'émail, le cuir, la corne, la nacre.
Après avoir ouvert une boutique place Vendôme à Paris, et rencontré le parfumeur François Coty en 1907, il commence à concevoir des flacons de parfum en verre.
Vases, coupes, vaisselle, flacons à parfum, emblèmes de grandes marques automobiles, ou panneaux (comme ceux qui orneront la salle à manger du paquebot Normandie ou du train Orient Express) sont produits selon de nouvelles techniques comme le verre coloré, opalescent, dépoli, gravé ou encore moucheté.
Dès 1920, il se tourne vers l'Art Déco.
Il crée également des effets esthétiques: le satiné Lalique, le verre opalescent et dessine également des tissus, des éventails ainsi que des pièces de ferronnerie.
Il possède son propre à pavillon à l’Exposition des Arts Décoratifs de Paris en 1925 où il applique les multiples ressources qu’offre le verre à la décoration (fontaines, luminaires, portes, flacons à parfum, etc.)
L’usine d’Alsace, fermée pendant la guerre, est remise en activité par son fils Marc Lalique en 1946 qui commença à créer les flacons à parfum de Nina Ricci.
A suivre: Lorsque François Coty rencontre René Lalique